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Pelicans on the tranquil waters of Baird Bay, SA, at sunset.
PHOTOS + STORY MARK MULLER | OUTBACK MAGAZINE
The West Coast of SA’s Eyre Peninsula is like its own world. Sitting virtually halfway between Perth and Sydney, it is a wild, beautiful, rich and varied environment that is as entrancing as it is remote. OUTBACK editor-in-chief Mark Muller was recently on this coast to research stories for the upcoming seventh edition of R.M.Williams Publishing’s Australia In Style book. He flew into Port Lincoln in late June, joining local photographer and long-term OUTBACK contributor Robert Lang and spending 3 days venturing out from this hub to explore the region with Australian Coastal Safaris’ Dave Doudle. Mark and Rob then drove further up the coast to spend 3 more days on and around Baird Bay with Brendon and Kat Bevan and their young sons Fin and Rowan, who have recently taken up stewardship of the Baird Bay Experience ecotourism operation.
FROM TOP: Ancient rock is washed by waves near Tyringa; The Port Lincoln Marina is home to the city’s commercial fishing fleet. It is the largest commercial fleet in the Southern Hemisphere. Prawn, tuna, lobster and mussel boats all venture forth from here; A female Australian sea lion off Jones Island, a protected breeding site for the endangered species. The public can swim with sea lions under the close supervision of tour company Baird Bay Experience.
“It’s a stunning part of my home state, and one I’d not been to before,” Mark says. “I’ve spent a lot of time in and around Robe in the South East where I’m from, and also time on Kangaroo Island, and further out across the Nullarbor for work. I could see some similarities in the ancient geology of the limestone and the cold power of the Southern Ocean, but the beauty and sheer scale of the country up the peninsula’s west coast has its own magic. There is that sense of things being familiar yet different that I found both reassuring and exciting.”
FROM TOP: Pelicans squabble for fish scraps; Early morning moonset over Baird Bay; One of several koalas to be found in the healthy colony on Mikkira Station, south-west of Port Lincoln; Chef Calvin Von Niebel’s cast iron potjie oven sits over its own bed of coals on the Baird Bay foreshore; Josiah and Rebekah Schmucker in their ‘From Salt & Soil’ food van at Elliston.
Great stretches of rugged coast and pristine beaches, massive dune fields, productive farming and grazing operations, commercial and recreational fishing, aquaculture, national parks and private reserves, sea lion colonies, koala enclaves, wonderful birdlife and a succession of knowledgeable, friendly and passionate locals all added to the experience.
FROM TOP: A shingleback lizard warms itself in the sand dunes in the bush south of Port Lincoln; Galahs take flight from a manna gum on Mikkira Station; Kat and Fin Bevan fish for salmon on Baird Bay as a bevy of black swans flies past; Dave Doudle is Eyre Peninsula born and bred, and has turned a lifetime of outdoor pursuits into a business via his Australian Coastal Safaris enterprise; The Southern Ocean and the limestone cliffs of the peninsula can be a dangerous combination; Baird Bay Experience’s Brendon Bevan revels in the natural environment at his doorstep.
“There’s such a strong sense of place, and such an interesting variety of things to see and experience,” Mark says. “It’s raw and wild and the people I was with are steeped in the history and life of the country. There’s an authenticity and energy that infuses them and that draws others who are doing amazing things with food, agriculture, aquaculture, tourism and business there that makes it a really compelling place to spend time.”